Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Arequipa and Titicaca

Greetings from sunny Arequipa! With exams behind me, I'm enjoying my last few weeks of vacation in Peru by traveling as much as I can. The first destination on my after-school solo journey was Arequipa, which is located on the southern coast of Peru. It's Peru's second-largest city, but it runs at a different pace than Lima. Most people who live here refer to themselves as arequipeños before peruvians, and it's easy to see why: the sky is clear, the air is clean, and they city has a colonial rather than industrial flare.


My first two days in Arequipa were unique becuase I was, for the first time, traveling completely solo. I spent hours walking around, talking to tour agencies, and testing out new coffee spots. I also visited a museum that showcases a naturally-mumified human body of a small girl (Juanita) that the Incas sacrificed on the top of a nearby volcano. She's, like, only 1,500 years old and her hair still looks good! Like, oh my god!

Arequipa offers a lot of outdoorsy activities, like hiking in the Cañon de Colca (2 times deeper than the Grand Canyon!), climbing El Misti volcano (5,820m), and rafting in the local river. I went rafting in the narrow Chili River, which weaves through volcanic rock with class II, III, and IV rapids. It was calmer than the other raft trip I did, but it was a great way to see the countryside. And, of course, I couldn't help engaging in a conversation about kayak gear with our guide. :)

While it was liberating to be independent, I was happy to make some travel companions within a couple of days. Several people in my youth hostel were headed the same way as me: Chris (from Canada), Will (from Ireland), Juan (from France), and Emma and Ben (from the UK). On Friday, all of us bussed south to Puno, which is the platform town for Lake Titicaca.

Lake Titicaca is the largest lake in Peru, and it is home to the floating islands that are famous worldwide. Chris, Will, Juan, and decided to take a two-day tour of the lake. (Ben and Emma stayed in Puno because they were sick). On the tour, we stopped at the floating islands, which are touristy but incredible. The islands are literally made out of reeds, and communities still live on them. After we took a quick ride in the traditional totora boats, we set off for the second island, named Amantani. We stayed the night in the house of a resident family and ate traditional regional food. There was a great thunderstorm at night, and we watched the lighting across the lake light the silouhette of the mountains in the background. The next day, we visited another island, and headed back to the town of Puno.


The next morning, our group parted ways. Will and Juan went to La Paz, while Chris, Emma, and Ben, went to Cuzco for Christmas. I took a bus back to Arequipa, and form here I'll make my way up the north coast to Trujillo. If all goes well, I'll be on the beach for Christmas!

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Ya se acaba

I can't believe that my academic time in Peru is already over! I just finished all of my final exams, and now I'm enjoying life in Lima for a bit.

On Monday, I'll be headed to the south of Peru (to Arequipa and Lake Titicaca). Later, I'll cross the border to Bolivia and spend Christmas in La Paz! Then it's back to Lima, where I'll catch my flight home on Dec 29. After spending a day in Maimi with Papa, I'll arrive home to CT on New Year's Eve day! Stay posted for more pics and travel stories!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone! I love you!

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving!


Happy Thanksgiving! I am so, so grateful to have all of you in my life; I appreciate your constant support more than you will ever know. It is because of you-- my friends and family-- that I am so lucky to have so many fantastic adventures! Sometimes it may seem that I've forgotten about home, but you should know that I think of you every day. I love you!

Last night, the UVA in Peru program celebrated a day early with a "Traditional Peruvian Thanksgiving Feast" complete with turkey, mashed potatoes, yams, cranberry sauce, and spicy stuffing (oops!). Oh, and of course, we ate pumpkin pie! We were happy to have our program directors, professors, Peruvian friends, and Suzy's mom and boyfriend join us for this delicious dinner!


To celebrate Turkey Day this year, I'll leave you with several high-quality one-liners that are sure to be a hit at the dinner table tonight:

Q: Which side of the turkey has the most feathers?
A: The outside

Q: What did the turkey say before it was roasted?
A: Boy! I'm stuffed!

Q: What do you get when you cross a turkey with an octopus?
A: Enough drumsticks for Thanksgiving

Q: What key has legs and can't open doors?
A: A Turkey.

C-U-Z-C-O

What an fantastic week!

Last week, two of my friends from the U.S., Adam "a-DAM" Yeh, and Keith "Crawpappy" Crawford flew in for a two weeks of vacation in Peru. I met them in the Lima airport at 3 am on Tuesday morning, and we flew together to spend a week in Cuzco. It was great to see them-- it had been over a year! Adam is one of my best friends from school; I met him through Outdoors at UVA and we went to the White Mountains, the Grand Canyon, and Joshua Tree National Park together. Keith is an Outward Bound instructor from North Carolina. We met several years ago through our friend Marie, and he is now part of the adventure clan.

Of our six days in Cuzco, we spent the first two days touring the city, and the last four hiking on a trail whose destination was Machu Picchu.


The City
We arrived in Cuzco at 7 am, took a short nap, and then hit the road to explore the city. We spent most of the day taking it easy, acclimatizing, and exploring cobble-stoned roads and cathedral-clad plazas. Cuzco is very touristy, but it's overwhelming charm shines through the cluttered souvenir stores and aggressive salesmen.

For our two first nights, we checked into the Loki Hostel, which houses about 140 travelers in dormitory-style rooms. With two grassy courtyards, a lounge with free internet, and a restaurant and bar, the hotel's set-up gives you very little reason to venture outside. We celebrated our first night together socializing with people in the hostel (lots of young people + traveling + bar = new friends) and later we explored the (heavily touristy) night scene in the Plaza de Armas downtown.

The next morning, we walked up to Saqsawaman, an Incan fortress with characteristic architecture. We ate a delicious lunch at Chez Maggie, which served fresh pasta cooked in a clay oven! Yum!


The Lares Valley Trek
Many tourists decide to take the 4-day trek up the Inca Trail, which ends at the marvelous Machu Picchu. Although the Inca Trail passes through many amazing archaeological sites, hikers have to share the trail with 500 other people. Adam, Keith, and I were looking for a more off-the-beaten-path experience, so we chose to hike an alternative route called the Lares Valley Trek. This 4day/3night trek still ends at Machu Picchu and you summit two mountains and pass through many rural villages.

We went with
Llama Path, which advertises itself as a Sustainable Tourism Operators. Although they are not the cheapest agency, they emphasize social and environmental responsibility by hiring people from rural areas, paying/treating their employees well, and reducing their impact on the environment. Llama Path also runs several volunteer clean-up activities a year to clean local rivers and trails.

We met our bilingual guide, Huber, at 4:45 am and headed to Huaran, where we met the cook, assistant cook, and the three horseman. It was clear that this was no ordinary backpacking trip-- we were treated like kings! We only had to carry day-packs and the food was incredible!
We had trout, stir fry, spaghetti with cream sauce, cake-- luxury! Every day, the porters rushed ahead to set up our tents and greet us with warm water and towels to wash our hands. Given the altitude, we arrived exhausted to camp, and we were all grateful for the special treatment.

Although the Andes are always cold at night, the guide assured us that it wouldn't get below freezing in the spring. The first night, I heard the pitter-patter of rain on the tent-- but to my surprise--in the morning I opened the fly to see 2 inches of snow on the ground! When we reached the top of the highest peak (4800m = 15,000 ft) later that afternoon, we made a
snow llama at the summit.

The landscapes on our trek were breathtaking, but one of my favorite parts was visiting the rural towns. Most of these towns are only accessible by a walking path, and they lack electricity and sanitation systems. Because townspeople barter with their potato crops, they don't have much of a money economy. Their isolation is also reinforced because most of people only speak Quechua.

Our guide repeated, "These people are rich at heart, but poor in their pocket." The agency encouraged us to bring pens, soaps, crackers, and fruits for the children in these towns. We stopped often to talk to them. The second day, when it was almost dark, we started talking to a little boy (about 5 years old) who was herding a pack of llamas. We have him a pack of crackers and a pen, and he said, "If you guys sleep near my house, we can kill one of the llamas and make a bit feast! And, it you give me a fishing pole tonight, I'll leave it in the lake tonight and tomorrow we'll have trout!" This undiscriminating generosity from a 5-year-old, who didn't even have a pen for school, left a lasting impression on me.
On our third day, we hiked to the town of Lares, where were southed our tired muscles in natural hot springs. Several high-school-aged girls thought that Keith was Brad Pitt, and they lined up to take pictures with him! Later, we took a bus to Ollantaytambo to eat dinner and traveled by train to Aguas Calientes, the feeder town for Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu
We arrived at Machu Picchu at 7 am. We were able to enjoy it in (relative) isolation for a couple of hours before the rest of the tourists swarmed in. We had incredible weather; blue skies, dramatic clouds, and warm sun. Huber, our guide, walked us through these incredible ruins and explained the history behind the key sites.

After our tour, Keith, Adam, and I made the challenging climb up Wayna Picchu, which is the steep mountain that you see in the background of this picture. From there, we got amazing aerial view of Machu Picchu; from this perspective, it was evident what a marvel the Incas created.


Monday, November 12, 2007

Weekend in Lima

My semester in Peru resembles the game of paddle-ball. Just as the elastic ties the ball to the paddle, school ties me to Lima -- but I'm constantly bouncing off in one direction or the other on the weekends. I have seen a remarkable amount of the country, but surprisingly little of Lima. To remedy this, I decided to dedicate this weekend to discovering the large metropolis that 30 percent of the country's population calls home.

Friday night I went to the ritzy district of La Molina to a peña, or a concert with traditional music. As a live band played, extravagantly-costumed performers danced merengue, salsa, and other regional dances. After midnight, the band continued to play salsa, while our Peruvian friends tried to teach me and Evelyn (from Holland) the basic steps. Despite the fact that Evelyn and I both towered over our dance partners, we managed to sway back and forth without looking too ridiculous, and we had a fantastic time. We danced until 4:30 am.

Saturday greeted me with a clear sky that let the equatorial sun pierce through Lima's almost-permanent fog. Oliver and I spent the afternoon walking around the Lima Center, where I bought my first Dunkin' Donuts coffee in three months (and it was heavenly!). I enjoyed my coffee to the last drop as we visited the main square (called the Plaza de Armas) which is filled with red and white flowers, and statue of Lima's founder (Pizarro) and lots and lots of pigeons. We also went to the Museo de la Inquisicion, which displays wax mannequins that demonstrate how sinners were tortured in colonial times. Before sunset, we took a bus up a crazy, steep and windy road to reach the Cerro de San Cristobol, which is a hill with a cross that overlooks the city. With the clear day, we got a great view of the city. From there, we could grasp how expansive and (geographically and economically) diverse this 8-million-person city is!

Sunday morning, I joined 10, 118 others in a jog around Lima as part of the Nike 10K. An estimated 100,000 runners participated in this race, which was held on November 11th in nine countries over South America. It was a really cool way to see the city! We ran on several main roads, including a section of the pan-american highway, that are normally jammed with cars; as traffic blurred past in the opposite direction, we ran in a swarm of running shoes and blue t-shirts. Bands played, people threw water from the bridges, and organizers converted the tunnel on the 9th K into a disco with strobe lights and party music. I ran with another UVA-er, Klass, and we both had a blast.

After the race, Klass and I replenished at UVA American-style brunch. Everyone from UVA got together to cook biscuits, chocolate-chip pancakes, bacon, omelets, fruit salad, and mimosas. It was a delicious taste of home.

At night, I met up with Oliver, Melanie, and Evelyn to see the Vuelo del Condor, which is a Cirque de Soleil-style circus with a Peruvian theme. The clown was really funny, and the acts were amazing; there were contortionists, jugglers, ribbon-swingers and fire-eaters. While the entertainment and humor is universal across nationalities, all of the costumes and scenery proudly reflected Peru's rich indigenous history.

What a stupendous weekend!

In a couple of hours, I'll be on a plane to Cuzco with two friends from the States-- we'll be there for a week doing a trek up to Macchu Pichu, so stay tuned for more pictures and adventures!

Monday, November 5, 2007

Desert Paradise

At this point, I'm not sure why I bother to unpack my backpack. :) On Thursday, Melanie (from Canada), Evelyn (from Holland) and I decided to skip trick-or-treating for a trip to Paracas and Huacachina on the southern coast. Although all of our destinations were heavily affected by the earthquake, many of them are now happy to be back in business.

When we arrived in Paracas at 7:30 am, we were shuffled into a boat with about 40 other tourists to tour the wildlife of the Islas Ballestas. Donning our bulky, bright-orange life vests, we traveled about 30 minutes off the coast to reach rocky islands whose natural arches frame the ocean scenery. We saw dolphins, sea lions, sea anemones, starfish, and lots and lots of birds. The abundance bird life, mixed with the dry climate, allows for the accumulation of guano over thousands of years. Guano, commonly known as bird poop, is used in fertilizers and explosives, and has been a lucrative export for Peru. In fact, the guano business was so profitable that Peru went to war with Chile over possession of these islands. That's right-- Peru and Chile went to war over bird droppings!

After the island tour, we ate at an ocean-side restaurant, visited the National Reserve of Paracas, and took a nap on the beach. Then it was time to head to Huacachina. On the bus to Huacachina, my assigned seat paired me with a young man, whose Lonely Planet Guide to Peru affirmed that he was also a tourist. We got to talking, and this man, Jeff, is a UVA alumn! On a random Thursday afternoon, I sat in a randomly assigned bus seat next to someone who went to the same university as me. Unbelievable.

Huacachina is a desert oasis nestled among arid sand dunes. Tourists flock to this relaxed tourist hub for its trendy hostels, great food, and sandboarding trips. Sandboarding is just like snowboarding, but on sand instead of snow. It's a blast! After a wild dune buggy ride, we strapped on boards and headed for the hills. I found that I preferred laying down on the board like a sled, and we flew down the dunes!






















The next day was a perfect, lazy day. Oliver (who had spent two days in Pisco with earthquake disaster relief) caught up with us for our last days. We laid by the pristine pool of our $5/night hostel and basked in the sun that we miss so much in Lima. We had almost every meal at the Bamboo House, which is owned by a sweet English-Peruvian couple with a precious 9-month-old named Jasmine. We were thrilled to know that she served REAL coffee, brownies and falafel. At night, we ate a picnic dinner as we watched the sun set from the top of the dunes.

Before we knew it, Lima was tugging our academic strings and it was time to head back. Although I was sad to leave, I have a lot to look forward to. This Sunday I'm running a 10K road race through Lima, and on November 13th Adam and Keith (two friends from UVA) and I are going to Cuzco! When I come back, the UVA program is going to cook a Thanksgiving feast, and before I know it, classes with be over! Time flies!

Let's Talk Trash!

For the next eight months, I'll be talking some serious trash. I mean-- I'll be talking seriously about trash. As the ominous "real world" prepares to pounce after graduation, the contents of your trash can might actually come to my defense. Through my internship with the Virginia Department of Environmental Quality (DEQ), I hope to come one step closer to "saving the planet."

From January to August, I will be working under the supervision of the head environmental economist at the DEQ, as well as my economics professor at UVA, on economic analysis of a waste-to-energy facility. The city of Richmond is considering the installation of a Covanta plant that create energy by using the steam from burning waste to move turbines. The DEQ aims to determine what kind of change a waste-to-energy plant would create for the city. In the preliminary stages, I will collect data from city planners, county officials, and businesses. In the later stages, I will work under the guidance of my professors to analyze and report the net effect of the Covanta plant. During the semester, I will doing most of my work from Charlottesville and commuting a couple of times a month to Richmond for meetings. In the summer, when I will be working full-time, I will move to Richmond.

Pretty exciting, for trash!

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Amazing Amazon
















On Wednesday afternoon, my plane touched down in the Amazon jungle of northeastern Peru. The steamy city of Iquitos, a remnant of the rubber boom and the largest city in the world not accessible by land, greeted us with palm trees, fresh air, and a beautiful sunset.

It was immediately evident that Iquitos moves to a tropical vibe contrasts loudly with the cold, cloudy, industrial atmosphere in Lima. Instead, of cars, the streets are filled with open-air motorcycles and mototaxis (motorcycles with wagons on the back). As the wind whipped through our hair, Oliver and I took a mototaxi to the hostel in the center of the city. Once Oliver and I had changed into our sandals and shorts, we met up with Melanie, Marie, and Jenny, who are also exchange students in our university. We booked a tour package for 4 days in the jungle, and then enjoyed banana splits and the local Iquitena beer on the patio of a restaurant called "The Yellow Rose of Texas."

The next morning, Melanie, Marie, Jenny, and I set off on our jungle adventure. (Oliver had an open wound that hadn't healed, so he opted to explore the city. He had a fantastic time.) In the sweaty morning heat, our guides Augusto and Wilder heaved 100 liters of water, two crates of food (including 2 live chickens to slaughter and eat on the last day!) and camping supplies onto the roof of the bus.

The majority of our trip would take place on the isolated Rio Ucayali, but getting there was an adventure in itself. From Iquitos, we took a crowded 2-hour bus ride to reach the port town of Nauta. In Nauta, we mounted a motorized boat with a palm-tree roof cover that took us down the Rio Maranon, past the intersection with the Amazon River, and then up the Rio Ucayali to remote the town of Puerto Miguel. From Puerto Miguel, we loaded all of our gear into two wooden canoes and paddled another three hours upstream to finally arrive at our campsite. Here, a computer and a cell phone have no value; a machete is the only tool you need.

We spent our days exploring the jungle by land and by boat. We saw tarantulas, monkeys, poisonous frogs, toucans, parrots, prehistoric birds, trees trunks the size of a small house, and lily pads four feet wide. We also fished for piranhas (I caught one!), drank water from a tree trunk, collected decorative seeds, climbed vines, and even ate worms!

My first impressions of the jungle were quite different from my final conclusions. Before the trip, I imagined that the growth would be so thick that it would be impossible to walk through it. However, when we arrived I was surprised at how much it resembled the forests in New England. I finally realized how magically wild the jungle is as I rocked in my hammock listening to the night. There were so many different sounds! I was overwhelmed by the amount of creatures and plants were sharing the same space.


Countdown of the AMAZING times in the AMAZON:

10: Number of millions of mosquito bites I got!

9: Number of hours we spent in canoes trying to find caymans or small alligators. We didn't have any luck in the wilderness, but we got to see one when we arrived in Puerto Miguel.

8: Number of river dolphins we saw.

7: Number of gold teeth that our guide Augusto had. Hard-core.

6: Number of tourists in the group. Four of us knew each other before in school, and two Israeli men also tagged along.

5: Hours of torrential down pour on Saturday morning, without letting up once. We're talking some SERIOUS rain.

4: Number of different forms of transportation it took to arrive at our camp in the jungle: mototaxi, bus, motor boat, canoe.

3: Number of times I woke up to the gawk of parrots. We slept in hammocks, which were wrapped in mosquito nets.

2: Number of times I refused the worm before I actually ate it. It was fried, and it tasted a bit like a rice cracker. Not bad!

1: Number of piranhas I caught.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Half Time

Wow, how time flies! I've already whizzed past the two-month mark in Peru, and I'm sure the next two months will be just as much of a blur. My friend commented yesterday that although it seems like we just arrived in some ways, in others it seems like we've been here forever. I still feel like a stranger to this city-- a day never goes by that I don't discover a new street or a new rule-- but on the other hand I become accustomed to traffic, gotten a handle on how university works, and accumulated a group of close friends.

I've been in Lima since I last wrote, with the exception of a class field trip to an archaeological site and bay reserve about three hours at side of Lima. It was there that, unfortunately, I broke my camera. Until I get a new one, the pictures that you see in my blog will probably "borrowed" from my friends. The last two weeks have been filled with midterm preparation, and they represent the only week of real school work that I have done here. That said, I think I have learned a lot both in and out of the classroom.

Now that I'm done with my midterms, I don't have class for the rest of the week. Predictably, I'm not going miss the opportunity to travel! So, at 12:30 I'll be headed to Iquitos, a city that rests on the Amazon river in the northern jungle of Peru. Stay posted!

Pisco: Sour and Sweet

On August 15, my third day in Peru, and earthquake shook the country. The earthquake, which measured 7.9 on the Richter scale, thoroughly devastated the southern cities of Ica and Pisco; it left people 595 dead, 1,800 wounded, and 76,000 houses totally destroyed. Although Peru and foreign countries immediately sprang into action with relief efforts, the southern regions of Pisco, Ica, and Chinca remain in a state of emergency.

Two weekends ago, I traveled with about 120 other limanian students to Pisco with an organization called Techo Para Mi Pais (Techo). Techo is a non-profit organization that builds houses for impoverished people or victims of a natural disaster. Since the earthquake, over 500 young volunteers (18-30 years) have traveled to Pisco and the surrounding areas to restore some hope in people who have lost literally everything. Almost two weeks have passed since I went, but I am still churning my experience over in my head, trying to make sense of my feelings and impressions. I will certainly never forget my weekend in Pisco.

The 120 volunteers were split into three groups that targeted three small rural towns in the outskirts of Pisco. Most of the early relief efforts focused on the urban center of Pisco, so even two months after the earthquake many of these small towns had received very little aid. Our group of about 45 people was assigned to Las Palmares, a 33-family town 40 minutes outside of Pisco. When we arrived, the reality of the tragedy sunk in. Against the bleak desert background, there was only rubble of adobe bricks and half-fallen walls. In the entire town, not a single house was inhabitable. Given that Las Palmeras was a poor town before the earthquake, you can imagine its desperation after the disaster.

When we arrived, the residents of Las Palmares were living in make-shift reed houses and sleeping in tents that foreign countries had provided. In most cases, two families shared one tent, which was a squeeze of space as well as a complete loss of privacy. The town's only toilet had been destroyed, so there were no septic facilities whatsoever. The residents, who so graciously cooked us dinner, cooked over an open fire outside of their reed houses. Most astoundingly, the town did not even have access to clean water until over two months after the disaster; on October 14th, firefighters from Spain inaugurated a public fountain that would finally provide a source of filtered water.

The weekend was a test of physical and emotional strength. In the face of extremely limited resources, townspeople and volunteers overcome obstacles to accomplish results that I thought were absolutely impossible. It was a weekend of pushing and pulling, of hurting and healing.All weekend I struggled with exhaustion but was rejuvenated by the gratification of our progress.

Techo aimed to build 25 houses in Las Palmares that weekend, which required constructing one house per day per group of 5 volunteers. If building one house per day doesn't sound challenging enough, consider that the lack of electricity-- our only tools were pick-axes, shovels, nails, hammers, and hand saws. All of the houses were prefabricated, and arrived in parts on a truck. For over 6 hours, we unloaded the panels for all 25 houses. The floor panels (which were the heaviest) required the teeth-gritting strength of 14 people to lift. My arms have never been so tired in my life, and by the end of the truckload, I feared that my muscles would give out, and that the floor would fall and crush my feet.

It was nearly 7 pm by the time we finished unloading the truck, which crunched our schedule to building three houses manually in just over two days. To make up for lost time, we worked every night until 10 or 12 at night and returned to the work site by 8 the next morning. We worked relentlessly to clear and level the ground, set the floors, and connect the wall panels. Then, we hammered the ceiling beams and climbed onto the roof to attach the metal shingles. By the second day, my group built 1 1/2 houses, and at 11 pm the third night we finished all three houses.

Our work in Pisco highlighted a commitment to progress, even under hopeless circumstances. Residents and volunteers refused to fail, searching for creative solutions. The construction of our first house is an example of our unrelenting force to push forward. It was dark by the time we were ready to set down the floor, and the light from the distant streetlights did not reach the area. At first, the family lit the sight by candle, but the wind quickly blew out the flame. Imagine building a house by candlelight! Later, the house owner climbed a ladder up to the nearest streetlight, spliced the electric cable, and ran a series of electric wires to a bulb that lit our work site. Now that we could see where to put the floor, the next challenge was getting it there. The wide, pre-fabricated floor panels didn't fit through the front entrance, so we had to take a much longer detour around rocky back road. As a dozen of us grunted to lift the heavy panel, someone would yell "Branch! Go right!" and later "Go left! There's a cow in the road!" Unbelievable.

By the end of the last day, we were physically and emotionally exhausted. We woke up at 6 am and returned to camp at 2 am, only to repeat the same routing the next day; out of the entire 84 hours that we were in Pisco, we slept only 18. We were filthy-- the desert sand crusted up every corner, and the only "facilities" were six port-o-potties shared by the entire group. We were cut, bruised, bug-bitten, sun-burned, and sick. My friend Oliver cut himself with the metal roof panels and had to get 8 stitches in his leg. Some were sick to their stomach, and others had a fever.

But we did it! In three exhuasting yet memorable days, we completed all 25 of the proposed houses in Las Palmares. Our the entire group gave 80 families a home, contributing to an accumulated total of 441 Techo houses since the earthquake. Each time we constructed a house, we also reconstructed the family's sense of hope, restoring their pride and setting the foundation for a new life. For me, this weekend was proof that human compassion knows no borders; the unrelenting drive to progress, and the gratification of a beaming smile, are understood in every language.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

The bitter side of ice cream

Everyone warned me that I would see some difficult things in Peru. When I cam here, I knew that I would see the type of poverty that, from the confines of my first-world, white-middle-class bubble, has been ashamedly easy to ignore.

In the nicer areas of Lima, suffering lurks in the shadows. Last week, I was walking to my friend's house to cook dinner with a bottle of wine in hand, as I passed a child who was picking through the trash two houses down. Although the symptoms of poverty are heard throughout the city, they remain a whisper in the sections of the city that I frequent.

In contrast, poverty screams in Huancayo-- and any attempts to muffle it are useless. Huancayo is an isolated and polluted Andean city that is suffering from ever-exploitation of its mineral resources. There are simply very few ways to make money. On top of that, the clash between the traditional Andean way of life and the capitalist urban lifestyle leaves many people without the appropriate skills to put food on the table. Poverty affects the young and the old the most; in the town square, we were approached by at least five children (between 4 and 6 years old) and one woman in her 60s who spoke only quechua but effectively transmitted the message that she and her children had nothing.

I feel so helpless. At about 10 pm on Sunday, Oliver and stopped at a small cafe and to order ice cream. My cone had two scrumptious scoops: vanilla chocolate chip and chocolate. After I handed cashier 1.50 soles (about $US 0.40) I turned to see two chestnut eyes looking up at me. The eyes belonged to a young girl, whose black hair was ragged and disheveled. Her clothes were worn and ripped in parts, and the two long streaks through the dirt on her face made it apparent that she had been crying. I guess she was about five years old, and she was all alone. As she looked up at me, she held out a couple of sticks of gum, which she offered for sale. As I handed her 1 sol-- less than I paid for my ice cream-- I felt awful. How many brothers does she have that are doing the same thing? Will she get enough money tonight to eat something? When I hand her the money, I feel that I am doing nothing-- what happens when she gets hungry again?

I finish my ice cream, completely useless. The sugar has lost its flavor; now it tastes like gluttony and injustice.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Huancayo, why not go?

After spending two weekends in Lima, I was itching to travel again. So, I boarded a bus to Huancayo, an Andean city seven hours northeast of Lima. Once again, I went with my friend and travel parter, Oliver.

When we chose to go to Huancayo, we intended to spend at least one day in the snowy mountains of the Cordillera Hauytapallana. Unfortunately, we didn't get to do any hiking because the (unorganized and sketchy) travel agency canceled our hike last-minute.

People say that missed opportunities can open the window to new ones, and our trip to Huancayo is an example. Determined not to let a sunny day go to waste, we rented mountain bikes and geared up with helmets from the 80's and bikes that only appeared to shift gears. Before mid-day, we were pedaling out of the high-traffic city of Huancayo and climbing toward the rural town of Cochas Chico.

In Cochas Chico, we met a 75-year-old artist named Leoncino Veli. He has been making masterpieces out of gourds for his entire life, and he has since passed the tradition down to his children and his grandchildren. The artesanos start with an ordinary dried gourd and begin to carve intricate designs with a fine chisel. Once they have finished the carvings, they run a smoldering wooden stick over the surface to create a variety of colors. Most of the gourds are split into smaller frames, which have drawing that tell stories. Some tell bible tales, others detail the process a potato harvest, and another recounts a love story. According to Leoncio, the intricate gourds take over a month to make, and they sell for between $US 50-90.

Oliver and I spent about an hour talking with Leocino and his family-- sharing stories, food, and laughs. Meeting this family and admiring their craft was a main the highlight of our trip.



Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Indigenous Modernity?

In honor of Human Rights Week, the graphic design students organized a collection of pieces to display in the central courtyard of the university. Even though I still consider myself an outsider to contemporary Peruvian culture, the exhibit's theme was very clear to me; each piece addressed the simultaneous existence of traditional indigenous elements and modern urban society.

One of my favorite pieces was a poster-sized image of a laptop that lay on top of a brightly-colored patterned textile that is typical in Andean areas. The laptop's window was open to "Google," but all of the words were written in quechua. Another image, at first glance, looked like a traditional drawing from the ancient Moche culture that inhabited northern Peru between 100 and 800 AC. However, instead of a scene of ceremonial offerings for an ancient divinity, this drawing depicted a combi, or a small bus that serves as the main mode of transportation in Lima's busy metropolis.

Most of what I have read about Peru's social structure highlights the clash between indigenous and modern cultures-- inferring that the two cultures are constantly struggling to dominate the other. In contrast, the exhibit that my classmates constructed offered a refreshing view that explored the coexistence of cultures to form a new, unique indigenous-modern culture.

Friday, September 7, 2007

Let the Sun Shine!


Looking back on what I have written so far, I have written very little about the city where I actually spend most of my time.

My first impressions of Lima were that it is a gloomy, industrial, and chaotic city. To some extent, these impressions have proved truthful, but in the past three weeks I have come to appreciate Lima as a genuine city with unique characteristics. Nothing is sugar-coated here--what you see is what you get. So, in a way, the grafiitied walls, dirty streets, horn-honking, and girl-whistling is so honest that it is, in a sense, comforting.

Lima's gloomy appearance is due primarily to its climate. To start, Lima is almost always cloudy. When the hot equatorial sun rays beam down on the cold water current that runs from Chile to Lima, excessive evaporation occurs. This evaporation mist turns into low clouds that get stuck between the coast and the Andes and hover over Lima in a permanent, gloomy layer of gray. This is something that is generally accepted here, and it has become such the "norm" that I often forget to tell people at home about it. However, when the sun does come out, it is blissful. Yesterday the sun came out for the second time since I've been here, and it was amazing!

It is also instantly apparent that Lima is dirty-- there seems to be a layer of (sometimes smelly) filth covering all buildings and streets. This, again, is caused by the climactic restrictions. While it often mists in Lima, it hardly ever rains, which means that Lima lacks the "natural rinse" mechanism that most other cities have.

While my opinions that Lima is gloomy have not changed since I've gotten here, many of my other first impressions have. When I first got here, I thought that there were absolutely no rules or regulations for driving. On top of that, it seemed that the Public Transportation systems were system-less. Now, however, I am beginning to learn that there is a relatively uniform and efficient method behind their perceived madness. That said, I think I would have to spend about five more years in Lima before I dare to drive here!

Monday, September 3, 2007

Hooray for Huaraz

Just hours after returning from our exciting yet exhausting trip to eastern Peru, it was time to start classes at the La Universidad Catolica. I auditioned several classes and finally arrived at my final four classes. The UVA in Peru program requires that I take Peruvian Social Reality in English, but the remaining three classes are Universidad Catolica classes that are taught in Spanish. My Catolica classes include: Andean Arqueology, Introduction to the Ecologocal Problems of Peru, and Ecotourism. So far, these courses seem to be a good vehicle for learning for about Peru (and, of course, it's environment).

The start of school brought life back to a more normal pace-- but not for long! Last Thursday and Friday were national holidays, so once again I packed my backpack and headed for the bus station. This time, the destination was Huaraz, which is a small city north of Lima. Huaraz is a hub for outdoor adventure because it rests at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca, the snow-capped White Mountains of the Andes. You'll find Huascaran (Peru's tallest mountain) and Siula Grande (from Touching the Void) in this mountain range. Of course, I couldn't wait to go! I was lucky to meet Oliver, a Canadian exchange student, who also wanted to go, so we set off on Wednesday night.

When you add Meghan to mountains, the trip is guaranteed to be great, but this trip exceeded my expectations. The city of Hauraz is charming and offers a welcome relief from the cold, cloudy, exhaust-emitting atmosphere in Lima. The air was fresh, and the sun came out every day (in contrast to Lima, where I have seen the sun for only 2 hours total) and it was so warm that I could wear sandals!

Huaraz is a high-altitude city at 3000 m, so Oliver and I spent our first day walking around and acclimatizing. We found a modest but cute hostal for about $3.80 US dollars a night. We did take a short walk up the to a mirador, or lookout point, where we could see the entire city from above. On our second day, we hiked to el Lago Churup, which is a lake that lies at the base of some snow-capped mountains. The views were breathtaking, but my favorite part about this hike was the walk through the nearby town of Pitec. At 8 am, we passed a traditionally dressed Andean woman who was washing clothes by hand in a stream in front of her house. When we returned at 2 pm, she was still kneeling by the stream, but this time she was rinsing food for dinner. It was clear to me as we walked by for a second time that, even though we were just feet from each other, this woman and I were worlds apart.

Our third day in Huaraz featured one of the most spectacular hikes that I have ever been on. It took three hours on a bumpy road to arrive at the trial head of El Lago 69, but it was well worth it when we got to the lake. The pictures don't do justice to how phenomenal it was to see snowy mountains and the sapphire lake in the same frame.

We spent the first 4 hours of Sunday at Cafe Andino, a trendy yet touristy cafe with a balcony that looks out to the mountains. Between cups of coffee, Oliver and I read the newspaper, solved sodokus, and chatted the morning away. By the time we got motivated to leave our relaxation station (my hands were jittery from so much coffee) it was early afternoon. We headed north to visit the hot springs in the nearby town of Chancos, but to our disappointment the springs were framed by dirty cement pools rather than natural water holes, so we decided to skip the swimming. Nevertheless, we took a nice stroll by the river that made our afternoon excursion worthwhile.

I could have stayed in Huaraz for months, and I hope to return someday. But, like all good things, the weekend came to an end and we headed back to Lima for some academic action. More to come!

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Pictures!

Check out the first round of pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/meghan.magennis/AndesAmazon

Guinea pig for breakfast


Finally, it was time to head back east to the Andean town of Tarma.

Our lunch (or more correctly breakfast, because we ate at 10 am) was cooked in an underground oven called a Pachamanca, which comes from the quechua words pacha (earth) and manca (food). In this underground oven, they layered pork, cuy (guinea pig), yellow potatoes, white potatoes, humitas (tamales) and havas (huge lima beans) on top of hot rocks and then covered the hole with herbs and leaves. It was delicious!

Our last stop on our whirlwind journey was to the Stone Forest in the province of Huayllay. As you can see in my pictures, the stones are amazing. Their shape reminded me of a cross between Joshua Tree and Bryce Canyon. We took a small hike, making sure to go slowly because we were at such high altitude. At 5000M, I got out of breath going up the smallest hills!

That pretty much concludes happenings of our class trip. We certainly have been through a lot of excitement in our first week in Peru!

Thank you to all of you who expressed your concerns about the earthquake. The situation in the South is still quite terrible, and if you have the opportunity to donate to any organization that is providing aid in this crisis, I'm sure your efforts will not go underappreciated.

Keep checking in! Now that classes have started, I expect my entries to be shorter and less regular. Love you!

Barges, not bridges


From the school in Pichanaqui, we traveled another hour east to reach the jungle town of Satipo. Both Pichinaqui and Satipo are unique because they are very new towns; they sprouted around a road that was built only 20 years ago. In these new towns, there is an interesting clash between modern and primitive elements. For example, we were excited to find abundant internet cafes in the main square in Satipo, we used a rustic barge rather than a bridge to cross the river about a mile down the road.

In Satipo, we ate lunch in a reed-roofed restaurant that served typical "jungle food." We tried yuca (a starchy root that tastes somewhat like a potato), platanos fritos (fried sweet bananas), doncella (a river fish), majaz (a dark meat that some locals say is the best meat in the world-- I beg to differ), and cocona (a sweet, yellow fruit that is native to the area).

After our feast, we visited a local farm that prinicpally harvests oranges, bananas, and mahogany. The best part was getting there! There is no bridge to cross the river, so the bus dropped us off near the river's edge. Once we crossed the Rio Perene by barge, the farm was still a two-hour walk on foot. So, we gave a local some soles (money) and piled 15 people into the back of a rusty Toyota pick-up truck. I can say with confidence that it is the first time that I hitch-hiked with my professor!

When our visit was over, we enjoyed a more spacious, but more bumpy, ride back to the river on the bed of a tractor trailor. At a 15-mile-per-hour pace, it took us about 40 minutes to reach the edge of the river. To our dismay, the barge was stationed further down the river. So, we turned around, retraced the road where we came from, and took another one down. Then we had to beep the horn until the boat operaters woke up, and we were finally able to cross. In this case, it was very evident that this small jungle town of Satipo is still very far from modernity.

Friday, August 17, 2007

Earthquakes and Landslides

Before a delicious lunch of ceviche (a traditional Peruvian seafood dish) we watched the waves crash into the coast while Professor Secada pionted to a building where he used to teach. He went on to tell us that, in 1974, the building collapsed from an earthquake. It had been 30 years, he said, since Lima had been shaken that badly.

About four hours later, I was waiting for the rest of the group in a cafe when the ground began to shake! The irony of this situation is that I probably would not have known what was happening if we had not been talking about earthquakes earlier that afternoon! It was a surreal experience-- buildings were swaying and cars were moving back and forth. We found out later that the earthquake was rated at 7.5 and that it lasted for over 2 minutes. Luckily, Lima suffered very little damage, and all of the students from UVA are fine. The southern provinces of Ica and Pisco suffered most of the damage with almost 300 deaths.

The following morning, UVA in Peru departed for a field trip to the high sierras and the amazon. It took us 17 hours to drive a distance that normally takes 5 hours. There was a landslide caused by the earthquake that blocked the only road that leads east from Lima. But, when we arrived in Tarma, a small villiage in the mountains, were received with a delicious dinner of Andean bread and Asparagus soup at 2:30 am. The hotel that we stayed at was constructed in 1730, and it was beatifully decorated with flowers, including the rosa verde, or green rose.

Today, we traveled further east to the Amazon and visited a small town called Pichanaqui. We visited with the social director of the school there, and she explained that one of the biggest problems for the school is lack of family structure. Many parents are farmers who rent a room in the city for their children, give them money and then abandon them to return to the fields. As you can imagine, this leads to serious problems with malnutrition, hygene, sexual abuse, and drug problems. After our discussion, we chatted with some of the children and took pictures. Some of the kids thought that we were celebrities, and tried to get our autographs!!

More to come... I love you and miss you.

Stop signs are just a suggestion

For the first couple of days, Paco and Jorge took care of our transportation through this large city. Finally, it came time to prove my first step towards independence: riding the micro, or the city bus, to the Universidad Catolica. Although Catolica is only about six blocks away, it is an adventure every time. Even though there are bus stops, you have to flag the bust down. The bus has not even stopped by the time you have asked him where it is going, and it is already moving again the moment your feet get off the ground. Once you are on the bus, it battles for the quickest lane and the quickest route. Lane-lines, padestrian crosswalks, and stop signs are clearly just a suggestion.

PERU 101: Intro to Peru

Greetings from Lima! I hope this post finds you well. I especially hope that Papa, who just had surgery, is recovering quickly.

On Saturday, Aug. 13th, at 2:30 am-- an hour before most college students have even gone to sleep-- all of the students in the UVA in Peru program met in the Miami airport at 2:30 am-- ready to embark on our journey. There are seven UVA students in the fall semester program, which is an intimate group compared to the 45 students who came for the summer term. Everyone is enthusiastic, so I think it is going to be a great semester.

After an exhausting flight next to a hyper but adorable two-year-old, we arrived in Lima. We were greeted by the two program directors, Jorge Secada and Paco Tumi. I will introduce them quickly, becuase I am sure that I will refer to them many times in this blog.

Jorge Secada: Professor Secada was born in Peru, but he spent many years in the U.S. getting his Ph.D. He is a philosophy professor at UVA, and he founded the UVA in Peru program and organizes all of our excursions.

Paco (Francisco) Tumi: Paco is a professor at a Peruvian university in Lima, and he is working with our program as the second program director. He has been a fantastic guide around Lima.

Both leaders have mirrored the exceptional nature of this program. They are always available to answer any questions, and they have been hypothetically holding our hands until we get comfortable in this country.

My host parents are Carlos and Graciela de Castro, whose children are married with children. Now, they have three rooms which they give to me, Suzie (another UVA student) and another student from Cuzco. This couple, as well as their neighbors, has been hosting exchange students for over 7 years-- they know what they are doing, and the transition has been pleasant and smooth. So far, the food (strawberries with cream!) and accomodations have been outstanding.

You can write to me at mem8sp@virginia.edu to get my contact information. The program also provided us with cell phones, which is especially convenient.

Saturday, August 11, 2007

Off to Peru!

I'll post some pictures and stories from my study abroad in Lima, Peru here. Check in when you can!