Huancayo, why not go?

After spending two weekends in Lima, I was itching to travel again. So, I boarded a bus to Huancayo, an Andean city seven hours northeast of Lima. Once again, I went with my friend and travel parter, Oliver.

When we chose to go to Huancayo, we intended to spend at least one day in the snowy mountains of the Cordillera Hauytapallana. Unfortunately, we didn't get to do any hiking because the (unorganized and sketchy) travel agency canceled our hike last-minute.

People say that missed opportunities can open the window to new ones, and our trip to Huancayo is an example. Determined not to let a sunny day go to waste, we rented mountain bikes and geared up with helmets from the 80's and bikes that only appeared to shift gears. Before mid-day, we were pedaling out of the high-traffic city of Huancayo and climbing toward the rural town of Cochas Chico.

In Cochas Chico, we met a 75-year-old artist named Leoncino Veli. He has been making masterpieces out of gourds for his entire life, and he has since passed the tradition down to his children and his grandchildren. The artesanos start with an ordinary dried gourd and begin to carve intricate designs with a fine chisel. Once they have finished the carvings, they run a smoldering wooden stick over the surface to create a variety of colors. Most of the gourds are split into smaller frames, which have drawing that tell stories. Some tell bible tales, others detail the process a potato harvest, and another recounts a love story. According to Leoncio, the intricate gourds take over a month to make, and they sell for between $US 50-90.

Oliver and I spent about an hour talking with Leocino and his family-- sharing stories, food, and laughs. Meeting this family and admiring their craft was a main the highlight of our trip.